11
V. The Rise and Fall of the Garment Industry on Greene Street
Surprise 3: brothels are replaced by a thriving garment business.
The disappearance of the brothels also reflected a new comparative advantage for the block.
Entrepreneurs demolished all bu t two of the small brick houses on the block , and erected new five- and
six-story cast-iron buildings (mostly in 1881-1883, completed by 1889). These buildings were for three
decades near the epicenter of New York City’s huge and profitable garment trade.
39
Real estate values
tripled from 1880 to 1890, then increased further until 1910.
The lowest trough in probabil ity of stay ing on the block in the whole series 1834-2013 corresponds to this
changeover of the building stock. The turnover rate was 98 percent between 1881 and 1886.
A new cast iron technology, invented in late 18
th
century Britain, came to dominate New York
commercial architecture from 1850 to 1880.
40
It relied on mass-produced interchangeable parts so
buildings could be built more quickly and more cheaply than in the past. Recent innovations in elevator
technology allowed these buildings to be taller, while the thin but strong cast-iron columns allowed for
large windows and large open internal spaces.
41
Elias Howe’s upgrade of Singer’s sewing machine helped
manufacturers produce greater volumes of clothing in these factories.
New York City was already the national leader in garment production. Garment production began in the
tenements of the Lower East Side, but moved as regulation and increasing demand for space forced
owners to move out of residential buildings and into purpose-built lofts and warehouses. Between 1860
and 1910, the number of garment plants in New York increased by a factor of 17 (from 600 to 10,000)
while the number of people employed increased by a factor of 8 (from 30,000 to 236,000). In 1905, New
York accounted for 51 percent of the value of clothing manufactured in the United States.
42
The garment industry benefited from new waves of supply of immigrant labor, such as Russian Jews.
Many Russians blamed on Jews the assassination on March 13, 1881 of Tsar Alexander II, and a series of
pogroms followed; then the next Tsar Alexander III issued in May 1882 punitive laws against Jews. So
many Russian Jews immigrated to New York in succeeding years that by 1910 they made up 10 percent
of New York City’s population.
43
In 1890, 90 percent of garment factory owners below 14
th
street were German Jews, who had arrived
during an earlier wave of immigration and had first established businesses in the Lower East Side
tenements before moving to the factories of Greene Street and surrounding blocks. Many Russian Jewish
immigrants had tailoring experienc e, and they lived near the Greene Street block on the Lower East
Side.
44
Massive I talian im mig ration to New York from 1880 to 1910 a lso contributed (by 1910, 7 percent of New
York’s population was Italian-born).
45
Italian immigrants to New York tended to settle in one of four
separate “Little Italys” south of 14
th
street, the most famous of which was a few blocks east and south of
the Greene Street block around Mulberry north of Canal (see figure 6 below). Another Little Italy was
even closer, from West Broadway to Hudson Street, between Canal and West 4
th
street, just two blocks to
the west of the new buildings on Greene Street block.
46
Italian women in particular specialized in the
‘needle trades .’
47
Together, Russian Jews and Italians made up 90 percent of the garment industry’s labor
force in New York City.
48
Greene Street was in a good location within New York City to take advantage of broader developments in
infrastructure an d im mig ra tion . Figure 6 shows the Greene Street block and nearby Hudson River piers in
1890 (0.7 miles away). For example, from the 1870s the White Star line (pier 45) traveled from Liverpool